By Nick Elvin
Laze on a sweltering beach at lunchtime, then later have dinner beneath snow-capped mountains.
Days like this are what make a summer holiday in Vorarlberg so different and so appealing.
The most westerly of Austria's states, Vorarlberg stretches from the shores of the huge Lake Constance and the River Rhine which feeds it, to the 3,300m alpine summit of Piz Buin, offering a diverse landscape and a variety of ways to pass the time.
Perhaps the most accessible and charming part of the state is the Bregenzerwald region, where you'll find flower-filled meadows, pretty villages nestling beneath the peaks, and the gentle sound of cowbells.
But before you dive straight into this stereotypical Austrian image, stop off in the lakeside town of Bregenz for a taste of sun-kissed riviera. Its buzzing centre is full of cultural attractions, with the arts well represented. Or you could just lie on the beach.
Up in the rustic villages of the Bregenzerwald, you'll find a quieter pace of life. Yet it's by no means a sleepy backwater. A convoy of sports cars bearing Swiss number plates pass you by one minute, a group of bikers the next, then tractors on their way to the fields. These are lively, thriving places that innovation and community spirit have made into desirable spots for people to live - friendly, polite and welcoming people at that.
From events and cuisine to architecture, museums and even the traditional attire worn by churchgoers, you can be sure of encountering something unique, fascinating and inherently enjoyable.
If you would rather visit in winter, there's world-class skiing to enjoy, but once the snow has melted, the Bregenzerwald doesn't just close down. Sporting options become more diverse, and opportunities abound for hiking, cycling, climbing, paragliding and so on.
Spend an idyllic summer break here and you may never want to leave.
LAKE CONSTANCE (THE BODENSEE) AND BREGENZ:
Austria, Switzerland and Germany all hug the shores of Lake Constance (also known as the Bodensee), while Liechtenstein is also a short drive away, thus making it central Europe's third largest and perhaps most international lake.
The main Austrian lakeside town is Bregenz, capital of Vorarlberg. It's a pretty town of less than 30,000 people, although its status as a cultural centre makes it feel bigger.
There's plenty to do, from taking a stroll with an ice cream by the shore, to visiting the opera. Bregenz is home to a floating stage which each year hosts a different production, and the shows are renowned for their spectacular sets. The floating stage and this year's production, Tosca, will feature in the forthcoming Bond film Quantum of Solace.
For the best views of the lake and mountains take the cable car up the Pfänder. It's worth it for the lovely sunsets, and views of pleasure boats and distant Zeppelins.
www.zeppelin-museum.de
The Bregenz Festival, this year from July 23 to August 23, features a busy programme of art, theatre and music performances.
www.bregenzerfestspiele.com
Among the venues for the festival is Kunsthaus Bregenz, considered one of the leading contemporary art galleries in Europe.
www.kunsthaus-bregenz.at
Lake Constance has a summer water temperature of up to 26C, so Strandbad Bregenz is a popular sandy beach, which also features a sunbathing lawn, and swimming pools.
BEZAU AND THE CHEESE ROAD:
The Bregenzerwald Cheese Road (Käsestrasse) comprises farms, hotels, shops and craftsmen who adhere to strict quality criteria, and also offer plenty of opportunities to taste what is an important local economic product. Historically, cheese used to be transported through the Bregenzerwald and across the mountains to Italy, and today the area's cheese makers produce 30 different varieties, including the Bergekäse (mountain cheese) and Sig, also known as "Bregenzerwald Chocolate" due to its caramelised milk sugar. Unsurprisingly, regional cuisine makes use of cheese, including the dumpling dish Kässpätzle.
Bezau is at the heart of the Cheese Road, and is the venue for an annual cheese festival, which sees aficionados and buyers from across the world descend on the village in early summer. Incidentally, an attempt on the Guinness Book of Records to create the world's longest cheese board (1km), will take place in September.
www.kaesestrasse.at (in German).
The Wälderbähnle Museum Railway is open weekends and public holidays across the summer, and runs 6km between Bezau and Bersbuch, through dramatic scenery. The narrow gauge railway originally ran between 1902 and 1980.
Hotel Gams in Bezau is a hotel and spa aimed at romantic breaks and honeymoons. Its main building dates from 1648, while in the new annexe the landing walls are covered in messages of love, scribbled by enamoured guests - an act fully encouraged by the management. There's a great view of the mountains, particularly from the heated outdoor pool. Rooms cost from 71 euros pppn, with spa pamper packages also available.
http://romantik.cc/
SCHWARZENBERG:
Schwarzenberg is like a time capsule. Many of the attractive clapboard houses in the village were built following a devastating fire in 1755.
Renowned Baroque painter Angelika Kauffmann grew up in Schwarzenberg. Her father painted the church after the fire, and she was also allowed to paint murals there. The Angelika Kauffmann Museum features the life and work of this founding member of London's Royal Academy of Arts.
www.angelika-kauffmann.com
Schwarzenberg also hosts the Schubertiade festival, the world's largest event dedicated to the music of Schubert and his contemporaries. There's a busy programme of concerts and readings at this year's event, which takes place from August 24 to September 7.
www.schubertiade.at
The Werkraum Bregenzerwald depot is a showroom of art and furniture by innovative craftsmen from across the region, including cabinet makers, stonemasons, floor makers, upholsterers and jewellers. From cribs to chairs to wooden sinks, everything is built to last in today's throwaway world. Items are sold worldwide - even the odd Hollywood star has bought from here, although there's something to suit all budgets.
www.werkraum.at (in German).
Käsladen, in the centre of the village, is a well-known cheese shop with excellent local mountain cheeses. Expect to pay 10-12 euros for a kilo of pure eating pleasure.
LANGENEGG:
The forward-thinking planners in Langenegg have managed to keep the village thriving thanks to projects such as energy efficient and environmentally friendly architecture, and by building the facilities people need.
The Langenegg Energy Trail is a walking route that also features artists' exhibits explaining forms of energy - for example a solar kettle, water wheels and a massive sundial, as well as positive energy portals and places for meditation. On a hill above Langenegg, you'll also encounter a 360-degree panorama complete with a 360-degree rotating wooden chair.
www.langenegg.at (in German).
Summer brings the antithesis of the heavy winter foods associated with Austrian skiing holidays, and Hotel Krone's restaurant makes the most of excellent fresh local summer produce, including wild garlic, nettles, cress, herbs and asparagus, as well as deer, pork, steak and fish such as zander. Dishes range from 8 to 20 euros, up to a 60-euro set six-course meal. Krone also has rooms from 70 euros per night.
www.krone-langenegg.at (in German).
RIEFENSBERG:
You're likely to see traditional outfits worn in the area on special occasions and for church on Sunday. Such attire is becoming increasingly popular again, and one of the best known consists of an embroidered costume with finely pleated skirt. At Riefensberg the old inn, which dates from 1648, has now been converted to house the Juppenwerkstatt, where a dedicated team uses knowledge passed down through generations to make traditional costumes for men and women. It's a very labour intensive process, which means costumes can cost anything up to a thousand euros.
HITTISAU:
The village of Hittisau is an ideal base for exploring the alpine meadows, gorges, mountains, forests, rivers and moors of the area. It is also home to the Women's Museum (Frauenmuseum), the only one of its kind in Austria.
www.frauenmuseum.com
The building that houses the Gasthof Krone hotel dates from 1838. Some rooms have more recently been fitted out by Werkraum Bregenzerwald craftsmen, tastefully making use of wood, glass and stone. These rooms don't have televisions, just a selection of CDs and lovely views of the mountains. Including breakfast, singles range from 57 euros, doubles from 98 euros.
www.krone-hittisau.at
ACTIVITIES:
The Bregenzerwald is full of well marked walking trails, as well as opportunities to enjoy hiking tours without luggage. There's also mountain biking, climbing, paragliding, golf, swimming, archery and much more. Click HERE for more information.
The Bregenzerwald Guest-card offers you use of swimming pools, cable cars and buses during summer, and is free of charge if you're staying in the area for three nights or more.
There are 259km of pistes in Bregenzerwald, with compact ski areas offering value for money and great skiing for all abilities. Anyone skiing for more than two days can take advantage of the three-valley ski pass, which includes free ski bus travel. Click HERE for further information.
GETTING THERE AND AROUND:
Ryanair flies to Friedrichshafen, on the German side of Lake Constance, with return fares from London Stansted from around £45, including taxes and fees (excluding baggage charges).
www.ryanair.com
From the airport there are buses and trains to Bregenz (the journey takes about 45 minutes), from where you can take regular buses that link the mountain villages (on which you can use the Guest-card).
www.oebb.at
For personal shuttle transfers from the airport, log on to www.airport-drivers.com
Car hire is available in Bregenz. Hittisau is about 30km from Bregenz. If you plan to drive all the way, it's an 860km (530 mile) journey from Calais to Bregenz.
TOURIST INFORMATION:
Bregenzerwald: www.bregenzerwald.at
Vorarlberg: www.vorarlberg.travel
Austria: www.austria.info
Comments: Our rules
We want our comments to be a lively and valuable part of our community - a place where readers can debate and engage with the most important local issues. The ability to comment on our stories is a privilege, not a right, however, and that privilege may be withdrawn if it is abused or misused.
Please report any comments that break our rules.
Read the rules hereComments are closed on this article